How to make a wooden box – 269

How to make a wooden box – 269

Giving a gift that you make typically means more to the person receiving it than if you were to just give something that you purchased So in this video. I’m going to make a few gift boxes to give out as gifts for Christmas I’m using curly maple and what I think is spalted soft Maple. I know it’s spalted, I just not sure if it’s soft maple or not But anyway these are a couple boards that I purchased from Bob Klose in a recent trip to Wisconsin [and] If you’re interested in some really figured wood then stop by his website He stocks figured stuff has really good prices, and he does ship so you don’t have to be local to, Wisconsin while I was there though I spent a few hours with him in his shop with a couple friends of mine and Bob is just a really really cool genuine guy, so if you’re interested be sure to check out his website I’ll post a link in the description below Something I picked up from Bob was that the most figure on the wood will be on the bark side of the wood In this case it worked out really well because the board that I had had some defects in it that prevented it from being used on its full width and The side that was convenient for me to use was also the side that had the most figure in it so I used the Jigsaw and Bandsaw to cut out what I needed Next up is the jointer and planer to get the board’s flat and parallel and this was my first experience using really figured wood on a jointer and planer and The helical head on my jointer left a nearly flawless surface with no tear out Whereas the straight knife cutter head on my planer really didn’t do that. Good of a job. I had to go Extremely shallow with my cuts and used the slow speed to prevent tear-out Which just meant that the process was really really time-consuming? Compared to the better cuts with a helical head stock I started with was a heavy four quarter So I resaw everything right down the middle and then planed it to 3/8 of an inch thick which is what I wanted for the box sides now from here I used a couple spacer blocks in my miter saw to cut the four box sides in a way that there will be a Start and stop point in the grain one of the back Corners is where the grain will start wrap all the way around the box and then stop Because that’s just how I’ve made boxes previously however I posted something on Instagram a bunch of people showed me that there is a way to make a continuous Grain Box Where the grain goes around all four sides and there is no start and stop point? I’ll post a link at the end of this video to a video showing that method (sound effects from Mario) At this point the sides looked a little bit tall. So I trimed them down on the table saw and I don’t recall what this dimension was I wasn’t necessarily going for a certain number but just whatever looked appropriate and Then I tilted the blade to 45 degrees and made a test cut on some scrap plywood to make sure everything would line up once It was assembled and it’s important to do that because you don’t want to go through the process of milling all your lumber and getting All the pieces nice and neat only to find that the joints you cut weren’t set up properly with the tooling So that it doesn’t close together when it’s assembled So take the extra step and make a test joint and you’ll have a lot less frustrations in the long run but the setup I used here was just two miter gauges connected with a sacrificial fence, and these are just screwed together and a stop block Positioned so that I’m not necessarily removing length, but just beveling the edges and this worked out really well, I wanted to make the top and bottom panel the same material and Also glued into a rabbit but in order for this to work. I needed to make Veneer and Glue that onto a piece of plywood and make a plywood panel That way the panel is dimensionally stable And I shouldn’t have to worry about any expansion and contraction and I can just glue it into place now the plywood that I’m using is sold locally as Five Millimeter Hardwood plywood Underlayment I’m not sure if if that’s locally everywhere But anyway I also made sure that the plywood was cut with the top and bottom layers perpendicular to the wood that I’m gluing on so Basically I’m using plywood to make thicker plywood after those panels dried. I used one to set the height of my table saw blade and cut a rabbet the same depth as those panels were thick on the top and bottom of all of my box pieces and that way once the Box is glued together and the panels are sitting in place They will be flush with the [top] of the sides now the rabbet width was sized so that there was only about 1/16 of an inch of material That will be on the outside Of the boxes covering up the end grain of the plywood panel (sound effect) Ahhhhhhhh The old saying goes an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, and that’s really true in this situation So to prevent any glue squeeze-out from staining the interior of the box I taped off all of the inside faces, and this was actually really time-consuming I underestimated how much little tedious processes that this project had But anyway that the tape can be used also as a clamp to roll up the boxes With glue in the joint, and I find that a cheap paint brush is perfect for applying glue in these situations And you can get like, I don’t know, two dozen of these little little tiny brushes for a couple dollars at a dollar store Next up, the plywood panels can be sized to fit into the top and bottom rabbits and because of the way I will inlay some walnut on the top and bottom perimeter a little bit later Absolute precision isn’t necessary and when sizing the top and bottom panels I’d actually prefer it to be a little bit on the loose side as Glue will hold everything in place and If it’s too tight it just involves another risk of me Breaking the thin sides of the rabbits as I’m gluing the top and bottom in place Once the glue dried on those I set the table saw blade so that it was 3/16 of an inch high and the outside face of the blade was 3/16 of an inch away from the fence this allows me to take two passes to create a symmetrical rabbet on the entire top and bottom perimeter and Regardless of how precise the top and bottom panel were sized in the previous step this new cut is Beyond the perimeter of those panels and into the area which creates a new precise line where the panel ends (sound effects) Ahhhhhhhhh I wanted a high contrasting wood to inlay in the rabbits so I chose walnut and I had to go through the milling process on this board because it was rough sawn to begin with but then I cut a few strips that were exactly one-quarter of an inch by one quarter of an inch square and Any time you are making specific size Inlays for a project it’s a good idea to cut a few extra pieces So that you can keep working in the event that you accidentally make a wrong cut during installation, and I say that from experience because my shooting board is set up for right-handed use I worked clockwise around the box when fitting the walnut and My process may be a little bit different than yours but for me. I first make a rough cut at 45 degrees With a handsaw and then make an accurate 45-degree angle with the shooting board Then put it in place And use a scrap piece with another accurate 45 degree angle to see if the piece is the appropriate length to see if the miter is line up and Then trim it down as needed until that piece is perfect on both ends And then once a piece is fitted I use a couple piece couple pieces of blue painters tape to hold it in place while you work on the next piece With all of the walnut pieces cut you can use the tape to lift each piece out of the rabbit Insert and glue and then tape it back down with the walnut glued in place I alternated between a couple hand planes to trim it flush with the box and To prevent tear-out I planed into the corners in a couple situations and when I was getting down to the last tiny little bit I used my block plane in such a way that at the end of the cut I skewed the plane similarly to a paring cut with a chisel so that I was slicing away the last corner and reduced the chance of tear out (sound effects) Ahhhhhhhhhhhh I used the Table-saw to separate the Lid which is always a little Nerve-racking when you get this far into a project, and you have to cut it up but I read somewhere that it’s a good idea to set the blade so that it doesn’t cut all the way through the wall thickness And just leaves a little bit left which will eliminate the possibility of damage as the second piece might Accidentally contact the blade as it is removed then you can break the pieces apart with a sharp utility knife and this actually worked really really well A little bit of sanding to remove the saw marks and then the hinges can be installed. Now to lay out the hinges I first marked the same distance from each side with a marking knife and Then the hinge itself can be traced with a marking knife and a wide chisel can follow that up To make the knife lines just a little bit more pronounced to the eye so you can see them. Just a little better with the Geometry established I set a router to a depth of half of the closed hinge and carefully removed all of the interior material making sure to not touch the layout lines and to not rock the router any Then a sharp chisel can clean up the mortise quite easily I used a marking awl to mark the screw holes slightly offset to the inside of the box and That way when the screws are driven down the head of the screw will Force the hinge to seat tightly into the inside face of the Mortise and when using screws this small in hardwoods It’s a really good idea to add a tiny bit of wax to the threads You really don’t want to break off a screw into the material this far into the project after a little bit of sanding I applied a couple coats of shellac For a finish. Now, I’m not entirely done with this project at this point But as it sits the boxes themselves are done I only added hinges to two of the four because I want to do something different with the other two And I didn’t add anything to the insides just yet I’ll cover all of that in the next video so until then Have a good one, and I’ll talk to you later

100 thoughts on “How to make a wooden box – 269

  1. Iron roof and glass walls. It burns all night but never falls. What is it?

    A lantern. Have a great week!

  2. I've been studying videos, because I want to make some trading card boxes. Your video was amazing. I plan to watch it a few times to get a better idea of what to do, but very informative, and you made it very easy to follow along. They look amazing.

  3. No feet? The boxes are great, but IMHO look slightly funny w/o feet. Maybe this is something you will add later as "I'm not completely done yet." I usually build the feet into the sides, only because that is what I think looks the best.

  4. I don’t know why but watching you reminded me of your apartment shop. You have come a long way from there.

  5. Impressive, im think im might have to copy your idea and make a movie of this for my channel.. Great craftsmanship.

  6. Jay – been following you since day 1. I know this is old but caught a much newer vid where you were praising the helical jointer and cursing the the conventional planer. Time for a new planer w a helical head LOL – That Dewalt is ok for rough work on a jobsite but they're far from ideal for figured or very hard stock IMO. You can get helical heads for them but I'd put those $$ toward a bigger better planer. Maybe one of those iron monsters from the 30s or 40s you could rebuild.

  7. Very cool. I have not tried square boxes yet but those look really fun…though I may need some new tools to do everything the same. 🙂

  8. Few quality of life tips that help me.. Finish the inside walls of the box before glue up and save some tape. The finish will help the glue come off very easy. When sizing up the top and bottom boards – over cut the size, flush trim bit on router with some double sided tape to bring down to exact dimensions, use a marking gauge on the rabbit thickness and bring that over to the top and bottom panels and mark for table saw cuts to bring down to needed size. This helps keep the perspectives the same as most small boxes are going to be a tad out of square. Hope that helps.

  9. I keep saying this is the last video……then I'm like "oooh piece of candy, oooh piece of candy, oooh piece of candy."

  10. excellent as always Jay. I just uploaded a new video please check it out on an fully adjustable articulated camera arm and a quick release mount for a dslr camera.

  11. 10:10 Jeez man, at least use a chisel for this part… ether you need the practice with hand tools for this kind of thing or you are just being lazy and relying on expensive power tools…
    But great video otherwise, some very good tips!

  12. Noooooooooooooooooooooo! that would have made a beautiful electric guitar top. Beautiful Box though, ever thought about doing one in amber or sun burst.

  13. Hey Jay,
    the boxes are so amazing ,the looking at your videos is so fun and so full of information is a really great channel
    Greetings from Vienna-Austria

  14. When routing thin edges I always clamp a sacrifice piece to the side of the box to give the router a larger base to ride on. This reduces the chances of rocking. I generally clamp on some guides, too, to prevent overrunning the lines.

  15. I like how Americans say “rabbet”. Blissfully unaware that the word is “rebate”. Somewhere along the line some American couldn’t spell. Just like Aluminium vs Aluminum.

  16. for the small hinge screws would drilling a pilot hole larger than the shank of the screw plus filing down the threads a little to cut into the hardwood help?

  17. obizblog … I really congratulate you. You thought a perfect design. An elegant study. If you appreciate it, I would like to sign big projects in partnership with you. GUROB International Boxes Group also has very high quality works.
    Heartfelt; I'd like to say I'm open to cooperation. The world is now very small. I wish health & pleasure full days. Best Regards – SinanCINER

  18. Do you have beginner-friendly projects? Especially ones with hand-tools only? Looking for projects I and my sons an do.

  19. wonderful workmanship, You go though all the trouble making a wonderful product, then you short cut it by putting on premade hinges, should went though the hassel of making your own, you have the tools and knowlege

  20. Wow, great work and setup, I'm just breaking into wood working. I put my Bosch RA1181 Router Table together with my Bosch 1617 router today. Come spring I plan on my first project. Does anyone know where to get plans for projects I could start with?

  21. Nice boxes, but…….. the machinery costs about 10k and will give perfect cuts. Would have like to see the boxes made with more hand tools.

  22. Great video! How long would you say it takes from start to finish to build this box? I'm just a beginner with basic tools but I like boxes for jewelry, music, etc…

  23. Really nice work, I've learned a lot from watching you videos. Thank you.
    I am in Chicago and am wondering if you or anyone here knows of a mill
    Where I can buy wood from. Thanks in advance.

  24. nice work, well documented..Thanks! 
    I stopped using tape on the inside to protect the wood, takes sooooooo long and it didn´t work too good I feel.
    Instead I finish all the pieces before assembly.

    First I smooth the inside and the outside by plane, than I finish the inside twice using oil, the outside only once. 
    When the oil is well dried I assemble the piece. 
    The glue leftovers don´t stick to the oil and can be removed easily. In my experience that way it´s easier and faster to achive a very nice smooth, well finished inside.
    Afterward I smooth the outside joint areas by plane and finish the entire outside again twice with oil.

    Greetings from Berlin!!

    I can't believe how brilliant and suburb the end product you've made is, absolutely tons way than any thing purchasable any where.
    Top quality job man!!
    You have some truly one of a kind carpentry skills!!! (wish I could make something even remotely like that. )
    Nicely edited video also and clear easy to understand explanations.
    Good on you mate.
    Please keep these kinda videos coming as they help to inspire wana be craftsmen like me.
    I'll subscribe to your Chanel man.
    Big up ✌

  26. Any reason why you wouldn't finish the box and lid before installing the hardware? Seems like it would be easier than trying to finish around the shiny new brass.

  27. Very cool! I'm thinking about making a display box to keep all my pocket knives in and this gave me some great ideas!

  28. The 4/4 mention is a strange American term for wood sizes. 1" to the rest of the world. they seem to use this thought to things like 8/4 – 2"

  29. I just finished a really nice box for my mother in law, might make some more… forgot how much fun boxes are

  30. I just noticed the Red Wing cabinet handles, nice touch. Are you from Michigan iam from the ypsilanti/ belleville area

  31. O man, good tips and insight, thank you! I had to stop and write this comment after you suggested testing the 45 degree angles with plywood… wish I'd thought of that last time!

  32. "Giving a gift that you make means more to the person receiving it." Yeah, the person thinks "He made this! Crap. Now I can never throw this thing away!"

  33. We amateurs buy a few little tubes of wood filler and our wives don't even look at the joints.
    (But not any more!)

  34. this is awesome! for more reasons than most would realize. But before I say anything else, let me say 'Lucky friends!'
    This guy is amazing! he has the tool power, the tool safety, the tool skills and the big one "patience"
    everything in this video leads me to believe he is 100% self taught .
    carry on Jay

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